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Table for Two

by Boo Vivant
Smiley Pete Publishing (June 28, 2011)


Specializing in small plates and chic drinks, with a modern, rustic-industrial aesthetic, Table 310 is arguably the hippest restaurant in town, a fact further evidenced by the overflow crowds most nights of the week. Fortunately, the downtown eatery doesn’t stop at being stylish – the culinary precision and innovation that comes out of the kitchen (which is mostly visible to the dining room) is the real seductive force behind the restaurant.

Owned by Krim and Andrea Boughalem, also the owners of Second Street’s French-inspired market and deli Wine + Market, the restaurant’s concept includes unfolding its menu in phases, starting when they opened in November with a cheese and charcuterie oriented menu that also featured a handful of small salads, side vegetables and desserts. This month, the restaurant entered the beginnings of “Phase II,” which includes a rotating weekly selection of hot dishes and small plates, in addition to the aforementioned items.

The restaurant was lively for a Monday night on a recent visit, and my guest and I started with a drink at the bar while we waited for our table. Our eyes immediately fixated on the selection of exotic-looking liquor and liqueur bottles on the other side of the bar, and after explaining that their specialty drink menu was to be printed the next day and asking a few questions about our specific tastes (i.e., “floral and fruity, or spicy and herbal?”), the bartender proceeded to make us each a cocktail that easily stood up to any I’ve had at a Lexington bar. I ended up with a Martinez (gin with the delightful combination of maraschino liqueur, bitters and vermouth); my guest had a Sazerac (rye whiskey, bitters with a splash of absinthe). The bar features a well-rounded wine menu with many unconventional and affordable selections, many offering tasting and carafe portions in addition to full glasses and bottles.

As for food, the menu focuses on small, shareable portions; intent on trying as much as possible, we started with two cheeses (a soft goat cheese and a semi-hard cow cheese) and one meat (Italian proscuitto) from the extensive cheese and charcuterie selection. While the cheese and meat ($18.95 for the selection of three) were good, the sweet and savory accoutrement served with the selections particularly stood out – mustards, fruit compotes, dried fruit and cornichon pickles.

From there, we had the pork belly special ($12), caramelized and served with a sweet syrupy sauce and fresh honey dew, as well as a scallop ceviche ($14). Perfectly cooked, the pork boasted a crisp outer crust while retaining a tender and succulent center; the scallops, largely sliced and barely cooked in a delicious citrus marinade, then tossed with shavings of fresh red onion, chile, cilantro and the surprising addition of sweet potato, were absolutely divine. We followed up with a half dozen Otter Cove oysters ($15; the restaurant typically features two to three varieties), served on the half shell, and an expertly prepared dessert of strawberry panna-cotta with marshmallows (it must be noted that the pastry chef, Stella Parks, who graduated from the Culinary Institute of America with a specialty in pastry-making, takes the desserts very seriously).

Despite the sophisticated, metropolitan vibe, the atmosphere at Table 310 is actually quite casual – servers wear jeans; the bill is handwritten on flimsy brown paper; the silverware is mismatched and soft dishtowels are used for napkins. While these details might be seen as lackadaisical to some Lexington diners whose expectations are based on the more formal service structure of nearby fine dining restaurants, to most patrons, they only add to the charm. The restaurant doesn’t bill itself as a fine-dining restaurant, or anything else for that matter – it follows a concept that is entirely new to the Lexington dining scene, and welcome.

Dinner and drinks for two came to $110.95 before tip – not cheap, but quite the bang for our buck.